Macaron Love

Oh macarons, how I love thee. If you've never had one, they are basically sandwich style cookies made with meringue shells and decadent fillings--not to be confused with coconut macaroons! The first time I tasted a macaron was in August 2010 from Ladurée at 21 Rue Bonaparte in Paris, a very short stroll from my hotel. I originally saw the store for the first time in 2009 when my family and I were staying at the same hotel. I remember walking past it and falling in love with the aesthetic of the place. The sage green storefront and black signage with gilded lettering demanded passersby to slowdown and look at the perfect candy colored treats in the window.

I can't remember why we did not go in, I think the store was closed every time we passed it. I do know, however, that my mom and I marveled at the enticing pastel macarons, expertly arranged into conical towers like sleek, color coordinated, and patterned croquembouches. I remember saying, "nothing that looks that perfect can possibly taste as good as it looks." I was wrong.

When I was lucky enough to go back to Paris this past summer, we stayed at the same hotel near Ladurée. On the plane ride over, I read a magazine article about macarons that described how beloved they were by some people. Ladurée were the ones used in Sofia Coppola's movie Marie Antoinette, but there were others that aficionados argued were the best: Pierre Hermé being the most mentioned name. I've since read from a few sources that Pierre Hermé is the best and will make it my duty to weigh in one day on such an important study. But since we were staying so close to Ladurée again, I knew I had to at least give them a try.

On the first day we went there, 3 of the 4 travelers each picked out one flavor to try: Chocolat Amer, Caramel au Fleur de Sel, and Noix de Coco. They were all incredible, but the caramel macaron won everyone's hearts. The meringue was crisp on top but not crumbly and melted in my mouth. The salted caramel filling was just fantastic. Sometimes salted caramel seems to lack any real saltiness but it was definitely present and complimented the sweetness nicely. Yeah, I could go for one now!

That's the other thing about macarons. I didn't say I could go get some and eat them until I explode. They aren't something you want to gobble down like, say, a sleeve of Oreos. (That isn't just me, right?) No. They are so easy and satisfying to savor.

Just do a quick image search on Google or Flickr and you'll see that people lovingly taking pictures of them in beautifully composed shots. Of course, they aren't cheap, but there's more to it than that. They make you feel special. Everything about the process feels decadent from when you first see the storefront, to the beautiful boxes you can get them in, to the wide range of amazing colors and flavors, to the moment that you actually take your first bite. It's multi-sensory experience that makes you feel like you've been pampered (except for the lines, perhaps).

And you were pampered in a way, because  making macarons is hard. I decided I want to learn how to make them and quickly realized they are really technically difficult. One blog I read even said that you basically have to develop your own technique after trying lots of recipes and making lots of mistakes. Great! Since I can't go to Paris right now, I am determined to try making them, if only just to enhance my love for the truly well-made ones.

So I encourage you to go forth and search for macarons wherever you are. Apparently there are great ones to try in lots and lots of places. I had an ok one in Yorkville last week and then found out there are more to try other areas of Toronto. By the time I make it back to Paris and conduct some serious research on the best of the best, I hope to be a veritable connoisseur.

Daydream Destination: Versailles

One of the main reasons I wanted to do this blog was to talk about travel in a way that went beyond what you might normally find in most travel books. Don't get me wrong, I think travel books are an indispensable tool for research, planning, and building excitement about your destination. They're just one tool, however, and sometimes it's more fun to explore what you would like to see beyond the "greatest hits" usually offered in them. Since planning is half the fun of travel for me, I'm going to attempt to relieve my wanderlust by posting about destinations I love. Sometimes they will be places I've been, sometimes they will be places I want to go, and sometimes I might plan out a little trip. Who knows? Maybe someone out there will get something out of it.

I thought a perfect first post would be on Versailles. Most of the books I read and the people I asked said to skip Versailles because there's so much more to see in Paris. True. There is so much more to see in Paris, but I really, really, really, really wanted to see Versailles. So there. Neener neener. I had a historical itch to scratch, okay? My parents humored me and off we went.

After two full day visits, here's my take on Versailles. The big palace bits? Not the best part. Yes, it is stunningly beautiful and full of history, but it is often crowded and not very well presented, in my opinion. The first day we went, it was hot and everyone was crammed into rooms like sardines and tour guides were causing major pile ups with their ugly flags sticking up into the air. The audio guide was also a bit underwhelming--it mentioned nothing of people peeing in the corners and stairwells during the palace's heyday or the direct passageway between the king and queen's rooms that allowed for discreet late night visits. There are so many interesting tidbits of information that could go with the drier facts and help bring the place alive.

So here's what I recommend: If you're interested, absolutely go to Versailles. Get a Paris Museum Pass! This helps you skip the insane ticket line and gets you into the palace, the grounds, the Petit Trianon and Grand Trianon. You can also use it for most of the major museums in Paris. It is usually worth the price, depending on how many museums you want to see and ticket costs at each place.

Plan on making it a full day. Get on the train early so you have lots of time. You will need it. It's quite easy. There are great in-depth directions here.

Once there, it's easy to find the palace, there is usually a nice sized crowd to follow. Be on the lookout for the brown signs pointing to the palace. It is about a 5 to 10 minute walk. Then you'll stumble upon this:

Gleefully skip the long ticket line and pat yourself on the back for your amazing foresight. Once inside the palace, as you walk through, if you're liking what you're seeing, slow down, linger, and enjoy. If not, then you can move a little quicker because, for me at least, the real treasure of Versailles is outside at the Petit Trianon and the Hameau.

I can, without a doubt, say the Petite Trianon/Hameau estate is one of my favorite places I've ever been. This estate was basically created to allow Marie-Antoinette to leave behind the formality of the main palace and relax in a Rousseauian pastoral playground. It still feels that way today since it seems like fewer people make their way over.

After taking a wander through the Petit Trianon head out toward the Hameau. Take your time and explore. There are paths that meander all over, slowly revealing the wonders of this place: a Temple of Love, a grotto, fragrant pink roses. . .I won't give everything away. Eventually you will get to the Hameau.

The Hameau is an English-style hamlet and working farm. Marie-Antoinette would dress down and play pastoral shepherdess. It probably wasn't the best idea for an already controversial queen in a tumultuous time to be playing peasant in what is essentially an 18th-century theme park, but that's part of what makes it a such an interesting place. Besides, even if you could not care less about history, it is beautiful.

The Hameau also still grows cool fruits, vegetables, plants and has animals. When I was there last I watched donkeys having an argument, a bossy goose, sleeping rabbits, baby chicks, and the funniest, hungriest, noisiest pig (or was that just me after not eating soon enough?).

So there you have it. My daydream destination at Versailles. There are a bunch of other things to see and do on the grounds that you could also explore, like paddling the Grand Canal, riding bikes, and visiting the Grand Trianon that Napoleon renovated. But for me, the Petit Trianon and the Hameau are a little bit of paradise outside of the city.

"Go Do"

I've been listening to this song quite a bit lately. I heard it on the NPR All Song's Considered countdown and fell in love. It's happy, sweet, and at this point in my life, where nothing seems certain and possibilities seem oppressively endless, it feels like a safe harbor.

So I'm posting it here to share it and to remind myself that I am allowed to chase the things I love.

I have some ideas cooking for this blog. I'm starting to get a better sense of what I want it to be, how to get it there, and, by extension, flickers of where I'd like to start heading career-wise. I'm ready for some adventures, lots of hard work, and for hopefully making my own path.

"Tie strings to clouds

Make your own lake--let it flow

Throw seeds to sprout

Make your own break--let it sprout"