Museums

Daydream Destination: Oceanographic Museum of Monaco (Part II)

Last week I shared some of my favorite pictures from the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco's aquarium, but the aquarium was really just the beginning. 

So today's post is all about the historic collections, temporary exhibit, beautiful rooms and expansive views that awaited us. 

First up is the Prince Albert I Room. It is chock full of artifacts and information from and about Prince Albert I's oceanographic explorations and scientific research between 1885 and 1915. 

At the time of his first voyage, oceanography was a relatively young science and Prince Albert I played an important role in its development. He and his crew studied plant and marine life, taking extremely detailed notes and preserving specimens, some of which are on display. 

In 1906, he created the Oceanographic Institute Foundation Albert I, Prince of Monaco which later became the famed Oceanographic Museum of Monaco we can visit today. It houses the museum and aquarium in Monaco, but also includes a library and world-class Parisian research facility. 

My favorite example of his team's work was their study of the ocean currents. They dropped bottles encased in copper balls into the ocean. Inside each bottle was a note written in 10 different languages, asking whoever found the ball/bottle to report information about their location back to the Prince. 

This allowed for a much deeper and more accurate understanding of the ocean's currents, especially the Gulf Stream.

There's something almost romantic to me about how simple and effective it was. Besides, who doesn't dream of finding a bottle washed up on some shore with a message inside it? For science!

Just outside of the Prince Albert I Room is large hall with more interesting things to look at. Like a replica of the first submarine which was built in the 1700s. 

I want to think that I have enough of an adventuring spirit that I would have climbed right in that thing when it was first built, but I know how I feel about deep, dark water: fear and awe. The bottom line is that I'd probably let another sucker go first at least a few times. 

At the time, Mark Quinn's Self 2011 , a cast of his head in his own frozen blood, was also on display here. I briefly mentioned him last week, but his works were on display throughout the museum as part of an exhibition called "The Littoral Zone."

I'm not sure why my only photo of it is so far away. I stood in front of it for awhile vacillating between contemplation and general heebie jeebies. If art is supposed to make you think, I quickly learned that Marc Quinn definitely does that for me.

At the other end of the hall, across from the Prince Albert I Room is the Whale Room. It comes by its name honestly. The skeleton of an immense rorqual fin whale that, at nearly 60 feet (18 meters), seems to span the whole room and dwarf the other 12 whale skeletons surrounding it. It's hard not to stop and stare for a good, long while.  

The Whale Room also showcases temporary exhibitions alongside all of the other interesting marine specimens around the room. On our visit, of course, it was more of Marc Quinn's work. One of my favorites was the eerily beautiful The Future of the Planet.  My photo is blurry, but there's a clear picture at the link. 

After the Whale Room, we went to the roof. The views were a treat, even on a cloudy and drizzly day. If you ever visit, I highly recommend not skipping out on it. There is also a washroom up there. Two birds, one stone. 

More Marc Quinn pieces and a funny, yellow not-quite-a-submarine boat greeted us.

The whole experience was a great way to spend part of a rainy day, especially in a country that has a reputation for being superficial and touristy. 

If you're interested in going, here is a link to the official website of the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco for all of the updated information you will need, including hours and ticket prices.  

Daydream Destination: Oceanographic Museum of Monaco (Part I)

I will be honest right off the bat. I didn't really want to go to Monaco. I heard it was overrated and touristy, but sometimes you just have to see for yourself. 

Now that I have been, I can't really disagree with the touristy bit, but I was so glad my family and I made the trip. We had a really fun experience and one reason for that was the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco. It's part museum and part aquarium and gorgeous rooftop views over Monaco and the sea.

As someone who loves both history and sea creatures (I wanted to to be a marine biologist when I was little), I found it completely enchanting. There were also some surprises.

"Planet" welcomes you to the Oceanographic Museum

The first surprise, perhaps, was Marc Quinn's giant baby statue, "Planet." The photo above does not do it's size justice. It's massive.

Once inside, another work by Marc Quinn, a beautiful golden shell titled "The Origin of the World," greeted us. We decided to downstairs to the aquarium first where I immediately became like a kid in a candy shop.

I was wide-eyed and amazed.

So much variety. So much color.

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Dreamy, beautiful, and otherworldly 

And some quiet types that like to blend in.

The little guys below were my favorites. They mimic sea grass and sway ever so slightly in the water, waiting for good stuff to float by. I stood there mesmerized for a very long time watching them do their thing. Admittedly, "their thing" isn't much, but I found them strangely adorable and completely fascinating. 

And then there was stuff of nightmares. . .

Like a pot FULL OF EELS.

Or an eel so big that he wrapped around the entire tank. Little bits of his body could be seen peeking out from the rock formations. 

Those little spidery lobster looking things are cleaner shrimp. They help clean the eels by eating parasites on their bodies, even going so far as to venture inside their mouths. The eels, in turn, don't eat the shrimp. I hesitate to call it sweet, so I will call it a nice example of symbiosis.

That eel's got a body that doesn't quit. 

Or how about a Stone Fish that will kill you if you touch it? 

I had no clue this was a fish when I first walked up beside my mom at the tank. He was further back amidst a number of other ugly rocks.

She started to explain to me that the one ugly rock was, in fact, a fish. I was having none of it. I reached out and pointed at him when, suddenly, he charged toward my outstretched finger with that frowning mouth of his open and ready for lunch. 

I believed her after that. 

Bonus:  there's another Rock Fish right next to him the in picture. Sneaky little death fish. Amazing, but sneaky.

We spent a long time in the aquarium, but there was still a whole museum left to explore. I'll leave the rest for part two.

I know the blog has seemed quiet, but I've been fairly busy and productive behind the scenes. I (finally!) finished researching and writing the Versailles Vignette Guide. I am now in the revision phase! I'm expecting to find some surprises along the way after all of the starting and stopping, but I'm really excited to get this bad boy finished and release it into the world!

I also started writing for the Get Inspired section of the website and have been working on a page for Villefranche-sur-Mer, a beautiful village on France's Cotê d'Azur.

Things are moving along!

France Day 1: Plane Rides and Paris

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I'm currently sitting at a cafe on Rue de la Harpe waiting for the pichet of Bordeaux to arrive as the cool rain taps the awning. We arrived yesterday after an eventful and somewhat harrowing flight from Toronto. Sometime after being hit in the face with a pillow and having my head sneezed on, the elderly woman behind me lost consciousness. They called for a doctor (just like in the movies!) and carried her off to the galley. Long story short, she ended up being fine (as in even giggling and bebopping around), thankfully, but the whole thing was pretty scary.

Another woman near us ended up getting really sick for the last hour and a half of the flight. That's one of my worst nightmares. She looked a very pale shade of green when she got off so I hope she's better now.

Needless to say, it felt like we were sitting in the cursed section of the plane and I'm extremely happy we are here now.

I will do more detailed posts of the places we see later when we get home, but these posts will have a few highlights.

Our first day was amazing. The weather was perfect: cool and crisp and sunny.

We checked into the Hotel Palais Bourbon in a quiet part of the 7th, but had to wait until 1 to get to our room.

I, however, was ready to commit some unspeakable crime if I didn't get something edible in my belly soon. (Hey, Air France, your food vendor in Toronto blows. And that's being generous.)

So we found a pastry shop nearby, Maison Pradier, and shared 2 pain aux raisins, a chausson aux pommes, and a delicious bread stick thing that had gruyere and lardons. It all hit the spot.

Next was the Rodin museum and garden, which was just a stone's throw from our hotel.

I fell in love immediately. The museum sections hold gorgeous marble, plasters, and bronze sculptures. Yes, the famous Kiss is there and the Thinker is outside, but there are so many more beautiful pieces. I think my favorite ended up being The Earth and The Moon.

I loved the mix of softness and life that seemed to morph from the rough, hard stone.

But the best part for me was the garden. I wandered off on my own, completely enchanted by all the little surprises it held, from the amazing roses to the evocative sculptures.

I will post a few pics at the end of the post since I'm doing this on my phone and can't format nearly as well as I usually can.

It was all so peaceful, calming, and lovely.

We went back to our hotel at 1 and had a bit if a powwow. We finally decided on checking out Rue Cler to see if any of the markets were out.

On the walk, we got sidetracked when Basilica Sainted Clotilde appeared seemingly out if nowhere. A bunch of kids were playing in front of it, giggling and zooming by on scooters. It felt like a perfect movie scene.

This is when I realized that September might be my favorite time of year in Paris. It's cool but not cold and the locals are back. It feels like a real, breathing, beautiful city.

Usually we are here in August when it feels like most of the locals are on vacation. Shops are closed. Traffic is quieter. It feels a little less alive even if is no less beautiful. Just different.

Most places still had their fresh, tempting produce neatly stacked outside. There was a place roasting chickens that filled the area with an incredible smell and made my stomach rumble. Another store had bright flowers and bunches of gorgeous, deeply colored lavender. A gaggle of old men playing that horrible chicken dance song on trumpets hassled me and I gave them "the look."

We decided to sit and had a pitcher of wine at Cafe du Marche. We watched everyone walk by until the hunger hit.

We ate at a tiny restaurant near the hotel called Le Sac a Dos. They were booked for the night but fit us in early. We had to eat fairly quickly before the next reservations. I'm usually a big fan of long, leisurely dinners but quick was ok since we were exhausted and wanted to sleep early.

Everyone there was great.

The owner was a character--friendly, funny, and no nonsense. A small window behind my dad looked into the kitchen where on chef would look out and chat with us from time to time.

The main chef was late. When she arrived and found out she had us and a few other unexpected guests to contend with, she smiled and went, "je l'attaque!"

All of us had salads and steak. Mine was the best, most tender. You could cut it with a fork.

When we asked about it, the owner goes "it's from Texas!"

I refused to believe him and we had a "Oui!!!/Non!!!" exchange for awhile.

I went to bed refusing to believe him.

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