Florence

Daydream Destination: Florence's Boboli Gardens

I had the chance to go to the Boboli Gardens and Pitti Palace in Florence with my mom one year. My dad and his friend wanted to go to see David at the Accademia, but since we had been before, it was time for something new. Early one morning, we woke up and crossed the Ponte Vecchio, heading to the south side of the River Arno, toward the Pitti Palace. It was late summer. The days had been hot, but we were early enough enjoy the cool stillness of the morning.

Early morning view from the Ponte Vecchio, Florence
Early morning view from the Ponte Vecchio, Florence
View from the Ponte Vecchio, Florence
View from the Ponte Vecchio, Florence

After a lovely walk, we got to the palace and did a quick tour of the Costume Gallery inside and then walked out to the gardens.

The Pitti Palace takes its name from its first owner, a Florentine banker named Luca Pitti. Pitti built the original residence in 1458. The Medicis bought it in 1549 and expanded it, making it the residence for the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

Cosimo I de' Medici's wife, Eleonora di Toledo originally employed landscape architect Niccolò Tribolo to design the gardens, but he soon died and  Bartolomeo Ammanati took over.

The thing that I loved the most about the Boboli Gardens is that they feel like a calming balance of natural and manicured. It was a relief to be able to walk aimlessly and just enjoy the space without feeling the pressing hoards of tourists that normally take over Florence in the summer. It seemed like we and just a handful of others discovered a secret.

Boboli Gardens, Florence
Boboli Gardens, Florence
Boboli Gardens, Florence
Boboli Gardens, Florence
Boboli Gardens pathway
Boboli Gardens pathway
Boboli Gardens pathway
Boboli Gardens pathway

It was fun to stumble on the really interesting variety of statues, sculptures, ponds, and fountains that are tucked away on the paths.

Boboli Gardens statues
Boboli Gardens statues
Boboli Garden statue
Boboli Garden statue
Boboli Gardens fountain
Boboli Gardens fountain
Boboli Gardens statue
Boboli Gardens statue
Boboli Garden pond statue
Boboli Garden pond statue
Boboli Garden Statue
Boboli Garden Statue
Boboli Garden giant head
Boboli Garden giant head
Boboli Garden statues
Boboli Garden statues

We were lucky and spotted this guy from afar.

Boboli Garden heron
Boboli Garden heron

Since the gardens are on a large hillside, once we got up to the top and turned around, we had a spectacular view of both Florence and the surrounding countryside.

Pitti Palace and Florence from the Boboli Gardens
Pitti Palace and Florence from the Boboli Gardens
The Duomo from the Boboli Gardens
The Duomo from the Boboli Gardens
Florence from the Boboli Gardens
Florence from the Boboli Gardens

There's also a tiny, but nice, porcelain museum at the top. But I was more enamored of the smaller garden and the amazing panorama.

At the top of the Boboli Gardens
At the top of the Boboli Gardens
The Tuscany countryside from the Boboli Gardens
The Tuscany countryside from the Boboli Gardens
The Tuscan countryside from the top of the Boboli Gardens
The Tuscan countryside from the top of the Boboli Gardens

How can you not love Tuscany?!

Before we left, we stopped by the uniquely beautiful Grotta di Buontalenti.

Grotta di Buontalenti, Bobolie Gardens, Florence
Grotta di Buontalenti, Bobolie Gardens, Florence
Frescos in the Grotta di Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens, Florence
Frescos in the Grotta di Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens, Florence
Grotta di Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens, Florence
Grotta di Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens, Florence
Grotta di Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens, Florence
Grotta di Buontalenti, Boboli Gardens, Florence

Before we left, I fell in love with this statue of what is apparently supposed to be Bacchus on a turtle. I don't know why he's on a turtle, but Bacchus partied hard so I also don't think it would be necessarily out of character for him.  Cosimo I's "court dwarf" (there has to be a better way of saying that), Braccio di Bartolo, who usually went by the name Morgante, served as the model.

Bacchus on a turtle, Boboli Gardens, Florence
Bacchus on a turtle, Boboli Gardens, Florence

For more information about the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens, including up-to-date hours of operation and ticketing, please visit the official website.

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

I was watching David Rocco’s Dolce Vita when I first heard about Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a Florentine steak. If you have not heard of him, David Rocco is Canadian-Italian and does a cooking show from Italy. In the first few seasons he did most of his cooking in a small apartment kitchen in Florence, but now he lives on a gorgeous piece of property in Tuscany with his growing family.

The show isn’t just about cooking and recipes, though. He’s very passionate about Italy, its people, its cultures, and its food. If you haven’t seen an episode, here’s a little taste of what the show is like:

So on this particular episode, David was at a butcher shop buying one of the biggest steaks I’ve ever laid eyes on, a massive Porterhouse a few inches thick.

But it wasn’t just the size of the steak that was amazing, it was that the butcher knew the exact origins of that steak. I’m not talking about just knowing what farm it came from, he knew what bull sired the cow that made the steak.

That’s when I really clued in that this was no regular hunk of meat.

Bistecca alla Fiorentina cuts traditionally come from Chianina cows, an ancient cream-colored breed originally from the Val di Chiana region of Tuscany.

Chef Cesare Casella explains a little about what makes Chianina special here.

Bistecca alla Fiorentina is cooked very simply over an open flame to rare or medium-rare at the most since Chianina beef is quite lean and will toughen when over-cooked. A bit of olive oil and salt can be used, I’ve seen some add it at the beginning and some at the end, but that’s it. Ask for it differently and you’ll be stomping all over tradition. Do you want to stomp on tradition?

This video should give you an idea of what it looks like:

Crazy, right? Now I have to admit, seeing that huge piece of meat really turned me off at first. But then I started to think about it differently. There’s a certain level of love, respect, and pride that goes into a such a simple dish. From the locally raised beef, to the butcher who sometimes can tell you exactly where it's from, to the chef who prepares it as simply as possible.

There are no tricks to hide behind. If the quality isn’t there, the flavor isn’t there.

If you’re a meat lover, be sure to give it a try when you’re in Florence. It’s not cheap, but you can share. My dad had the Bistecca alla Fiorentina when we were in Florence and enjoyed it. I also shared a Tagliata alla Fiorentina, a version that's cut into strips, with him at a small restaurant in Cortona.

I’ve read that Trattoria Sostanza in Florence, near Santa Maria Novella, makes one of the best Bisteccas alla Fiorentina in the city, so I’ve added that to my list. Now, I just need to bring someone (or multiple people) who can help me eat it.

Savonarola and the Bonfire of the Vanities

Ah, the Renaissance. A rebirth. The end of the Dark Ages. Leaps forward in art, science, thinking, and learning Since Florence was the epicenter of the Italian Renaissance, it's easy to think of it as a bastion of optimistic progress.

So it might be a little surprising to know that in 1494, when the Renaissance had been going on for quite a while, a man named Girolamo Savonarola came to power and literally set fire to the things he considered amoral, including Renaissance works.

To the right is a painting of Savonarola, who was born in Ferrara, Italy in 1452. I don't think we'll be seeing him featured on Bangable Dudes in History any time soon. That's ok, though, because he was a Dominican Friar and kind of a wet blanket, unless you're really into morality or, perhaps, if you're a pyromaniac.

I must admit, though, I do find him pretty fascinating. So what's his deal?

Savonarola vehemently opposed moral corruption, especially within the aristocracy and clergy. He developed a fiery preaching style to disseminate his message, which was well received by the Florentine public. They gathered in crowds to hear him rail against sinfulness and vice. He claimed to have received messages directly from God and said,

The sword of the Lord will descend on the earth swiftly and soon.

Even Lorenzo the Magnificent, a Medici and Grand Duke of Florence, respected Savonarola despite being one of the monk's targets. There's a story that Lorenzo, on his deathbed, called on Savonarola to administer the last rites. Apparently Savonarola would only do it if Lorenzo handed his power over to Savonarola. Lorenzo refused and, therefore, Savonarola would not administer the rites.

I haven't found any real evidence that this story is true. I'm skeptical. I think the story itself, especially if it's not true, is an interesting example of the complexity of Savonarola's place in history. Was he a power-hungry fanatic or was he a reformer in a time of corruption?

After Lorenzo died in 1492, his son Piero took power and swiftly earned the nickname "The Unfortunate." The Medici family, you see, ruled the Tuscany starting in 1434 with Cosimo de' Medici. Poor Piero lost Florence and Tuscany when he failed to stop King Charles VIII of France from invading in 1494. He and his family were exiled.

For Savonarola, Piero's failures were a great opportunity. After the French left Florence, Savonarola became a leader of the new Florentine republic that would follow God's law under his watch. He clamped down on vices by enacting sumptuary laws and prohibiting gambling.

His group of followers, called the Weepers, saw him as a prophet and supported his fight against materialism and sin. One of his most famous devotees was Renaissance superstar, Botticelli.

Jonathan Jones wrote a great article in the Guardian entitled "The sword in the sky." He details Savonarola's influence on Botticelli and he also suggests people followed Savonarola because he gave them a "way of making sense of some of the most shocking, brutal changes anyone remembered." He goes on to say,

Governments were falling, empires crumbling, Italy was one vast battlefield. Savonarola not only explained all this, but made it possible to see some glimmer of hope - it was all a divine plan in which Florence would play a special part in reforming the Christian world.

So while Savonarola was not without detractors, he masterfully used the social and political climate to his benefit.

All of this culminated in the Bonfire of the Vanities. On February 7th, 1497, Mardi Gras, Savonarola held a public collection of anything related to vice or sin, like mirrors, cosmetics, certain books, paintings, cards, ostentatious clothing, and jewelry. He then held a massive bonfire and burned it all. Some sources say Botticelli himself threw some of his paintings into the fire.

One might think that someone like the Pope would be a-ok with this kind of faith-based rule. Nope. Savonarola, remember, was against corruption in the clergy and this included the Pope.

Pope Alexander VI was a Borgia, Rodrigo Borgia to be exact. Their lot was known not just for being power-hungry, but also for a number of nefarious acts and scandals: murders, affairs, orgies, intrigue, and, as you will soon see, torture.

Needless to say, the Pope and Savonarola were not buddies by any stretch of the imagination. The Pope saw Savonarola as a threat and accused him of heresy. On May 13, 1497, Pope Alexander VI formally excommunicated him.

To make matters worse, Savonarola was already starting to lose hold in Florence. People began to revolt against the sumptuary laws and bonfires when they did not see any resulting benefit for themselves or the city.

Eventually, Savonarola and two other Dominican friars, Fra Silvestro and Fra Domenico da Pescia, were captured and charged with "religious errors," heresy, sedition, and false prophecies. Pope Alexander VI had the three men tortured.

Finally, on May 23, 1498, they met a horrifying end together. They were hanged and burned in Florence's Piazza della Signoria--where the Bonfire of the Vanities took place. There's still a plaque marking the spot in the Piazza today. Their ashes were thrown into the Arno, next to the Ponte Vecchio. [More info on Wikipedia]

In a strange twist of events, the Medici family regained power in Tuscany during the 16th century. Ferdinando I de' Medici became the Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1587. He sought to be a more gentle, tolerant leader. He, for example, penned an edict supporting greater tolerance for Jews and heretics.

Ferdinando also got sick of the stench and pollution on the Ponte Vecchio, which was home to Florence’s butchers. He ordered them all out, banned them, and allowed goldsmiths and jewelers set up shops in their place.

How is that for an extraordinary juxtaposition? Nearly 100 years after Savonarola burned the sumptuous vanities of Florence, a more tolerant Medici helped turn the bridge next to Savonarola’s ashes into one of the most famous places in the world to shop for pretty, gilded trinkets, even today.

Just as a quick note to end on, I read a historical fiction novel about Florence and Savonarola a few years ago called The Birth of Venus by Sarah Dunant. I remember feeling like the story was pretty far-fetched but being interested in the descriptions of Florence and Savonarola.